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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.